As a software guy vs EE, I was confused about how this works and skimming the paper didn't yield the simpler, high-level TLDR I needed to enlighten myself. I searched the paper's URL on Hacker News and found this paragraph in a comment that helped me.

> Programmmers usually think ROMs as data storage devices, but they are also the most rudimentary form of programmable logic, as they transform x-bit of address inputs into arbitrary y-bit data outputs, so they can implement arbitrary combinational logic. In fact, lookup tables are the heart of modern FPGAs. As a result, you may argue that this means any ROM-based design has ad-hoc FPGAs (especially when EEPROMs are so large after the 1980s, 64 K for 16-bit chips). But the use of Mask ROMs and PLAs in Control Units has always been a legitimate and standard way to design CPUs even back in the 70s, so I won't call it "cheating" (and using ROMs for ALUs or Control Unit wouldn't really be much different from using a pre-made 74181 or AMD Am2900 anyway).